We got a Corgi, and I’m sharing my tips on preparing for a Pembroke Welsh Corgi when you work or go to school full-time!
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What is a Pembroke Welsh Corgi
If I were to give you my definition of Pembroke Welsh Corgis, I would say they are short, fluffy balls of energy. However, I know you want more than that, so…
According to the American Kennel Club’s website:
“At 10 to 12 inches at the shoulder and 27 to 30 pounds, a well-built male Pembroke presents a big dog in a small package. Short but powerful legs, muscular thighs, and a deep chest equip him for a hard day’s work. Built long and low, Pembrokes are surprisingly quick and agile. They can be red, sable, fawn, and black and tan, with or without white markings.
The Pembroke is a bright, sensitive dog who enjoys play with his human family and responds well to training. As herders bred to move cattle, they are fearless and independent. They are vigilant watchdogs, with acute senses and a “big dog” bark. Families who can meet their bold but kindly Pembroke’s need for activity and togetherness will never have a more loyal, loving pet.”
Affectionate, Smart, Alert
AKC Breed Popularity: Ranks 18 of 193
Height: 10-12 inches
Weight: up to 30 pounds (male), up to 28 pounds (female)
Life Expectancy: 12-13 years
Group: Herding Group “
View more breed information at AKC.
Why We Decided to Get a Pembroke Welsh Corgi Puppy
I have heard and read just about everything there is to hear and read about pets, adopting, fostering and breeding.
While there are benefits to all, depending on you and your lifestyle, we chose to go with a breeder. This is what fit us best, and that’s about all I will say about that.
When you are choosing your next forever family member, my best advice to you is to remember that it is your choice and yours alone.
How to Get a Pembroke Welsh Corgi
There are a few ways to get a Pembroke Welsh Corgi:
Adopting from a shelter or pet store
Breeder in/out of state or from other countries
Fostering a Puppy
Fostering is a nice, short-term solution to fulfill your desires to have a pet. This means that you are providing a safe, temporary home for a pet until they are ready to join their forever family.
You can find fostering opportunities at your local shelters or humane society.
Adopting a Puppy
With adopting, you may get lucky and find a puppy that has been surrendered to a shelter. However, Pembroke Welsh Corgi puppies are very difficult to find in shelters, mostly because they are quite a popular breed at the moment.
If you do find one in a shelter, make sure you do your research and check up on the history of the puppy. Many puppies are surrendered from puppy mills (breeders that churn out puppies without regard to their health or their parents’ health).
When you choose to adopt, the pricing will be a lot lower than if you went with a breeder. Most shelters just want to find forever homes for animals, so their priority is not to gain a profit on the animals.
Choosing a Breeder
Many breeders have websites or Facebook pages. Follow them and keep up with them. Many have waiting lists for their next litters, and you’ll most likely need to put down a deposit to be put on a waiting list for a puppy.
If you decide to go with a breeder, I highly recommend you do your best to find out everything about the breeder. Look up everything you can find about them online, read all of the reviews, and if you are daring, reach out to people who have left reviews.
Like I stated earlier, there are many breeders that function as puppy mills. They mate dogs without considering their health history, diseases, disorders, and lineage.
Puppies should be with their momma until at least 8 weeks of age, and some breeders keep puppies until 12 weeks, which is great for socializing them and beginning training. Beware of breeders who offer puppies up before 8 weeks.
Many people have brought home puppies from puppy mill breeders only to find their puppy is covered in fleas, filled with worms, has a history of degenerative disorders, and/or worse, doesn’t live very long.
Spare yourself the heartbreak and the wasted funds and do diligent research.
As far as breeder pricing goes, in Texas, they can cost anywhere from $1,200-$3,000, depending on their age, lineage as well as show quality.
Preparing for a Pembroke Welsh Corgi When You Work or Go to School Full-Time
Many of you work or go to school part-time, full-time, are parents, or a combination of the those things. Me too. Still, I chose to add a puppy to our family.
To save money, I use Ebates and shop online at Chewy for 5% Cash Back ($49 purchases get free 1-2 day shipping!). I order just about everything from Chewy, because it is just so convenient and cheaper than a lot of local places.
Things you’ll need before bringing your puppy home:
A designated space where you can surrender to the puppy and is easy to clean up (bathroom area, laundry room, corner or the apartment, etc.).
Dog pen like this one to enclose the space.
Dog crate like this one for the puppy to sleep and play.
Hair catcher for the drain like this one, because Corgis have 2 coats of fur and shed a lot
Deshedding tool like this one (or one your pup likes better) for all that fur
Potty pads like these for potty training indoors
Pet carrier like this one for car rides and traveling
Car seat cover - we have this one
Puppy shampoo - we like this one
A leash - we have this one
A collar - we have this one
Clicker if you choose to clicker train
Nail grinder to file down nails
Baby wipes - We use these to wipe Marty’s feet (when he steps in pee and poop), fur (to freshen up between baths), belly (after peeing) and butt (after pooping)
White vinegar - your pup will poop and pee in places you don’t want them to, and for hard surfaces, I recommend white vinegar (it’s safe and cleans up nicely). We have 2 jugs on hand always.
Resolve or other carpet cleaner if you have carpet/rugs
Toys! - Your pup will have his/her preferences, so pick out some different ones and see how they like it.
Some of Marty’s favorite toys are:
Food Items and Things
Dishes - one for water and one for food. I recommend having 2 sets, so that you always have a clean set. Also, I recommend deep, heavy bowls for water. Marty likes to plop into the water bowl (on purpose and accidentally). Get a set of travel dishes like these too.
Treat dispenser for slowing down fast eaters - We use this one. Marty has to tip the toy over to dispense his kibble. Instead of scarfing down 1/2 cup of kibble in 2 minutes, it takes about 30 minutes to get them all out of this Kong. Also, this also helps expel that energy that they have so much of!
Dog Treats - Treats are really great to have when you’re training. At first, use kibble as their treat and move up to more special treats. Marty really loves Nutro Mini Bites in Roasted Chicken, which we pick up at our local PetSmart.
Things you’ll need for yourself and later on as puppy grows:
Setting Up Your Puppy’s Space
This one took us a while to figure out, and we had a few concerns:
Where to put his crate and pen?
How much space do we give him?
Is he going to be able to run around without hurting himself?
What if he poops and pees everywhere?
You know - typical stuff.
We started off with a pen and a crate and connected them, so that he had a place to sleep (crate), play and poop and pee (pen area with potty pads on one side).
This didn’t work too well, because he was running around, not being able to distinguish the play space from the poop and pee space. So we bought another pen.
We closed off the poop and pee space in one pen with the pen door, and we connected another pen to close off the space and connect to the crate.
This didn’t work either, because now he had too much room and was just pooping and peeing everywhere inside the pens.
After a few more experiments with spacing, we cut it down to this:
Potty area enclosed in one pen, with a doorway leading to the play area, which leads into his crate.
Marty must hop into and out of the potty area to the play area. We placed a foam roll over the wire doorway so that he doesn’t hurt his belly while hopping over.
At night, we close the door of his crate while he sleeps and wake up during the night to let him out to pee. After peeing (sometimes pooping will happen), he goes back into his crate and back to sleep.
His crate is only 1/3 accessible to him. There’s enough room for him to hop in, turn around, sleep comfortably (face down, belly up, pushed up against the walls, etc.) and play with his toys.
Lesson learned: Puppies manage their space better when there’s not too much of it.
Some Things They Don’t Tell You About Having a Puppy
I have never raised a puppy before. I have 2 sons, but that’s not even close to the amount of time, energy and money that goes into having a pet.
After having Marty for about a month, I’m sharing some of my experiences and frustrations, because let’s be real - sometimes I want to pull my hair out.
Say goodbye to continuous sleep. Puppies require a lot of attention and guiding. If you’re not awake when they need to poop or pee before they’re completely trained, they will deposit wherever they want to. We start our day at 6:00 am to feed and let him potty. During the day, he poops and pees every few hours (mostly on his own). At night, we wake up every 2-4 hours to make sure he goes to potty in the proper place. If you like/need your sleep, or are gone all day, this is something to consider.
You can’t bring your puppy anywhere before they’ve been completely vaccinated at 16 weeks. There are many diseases that they could get from other dogs, animals, the ground, the air - everywhere. We live in an apartment complex and can’t control our outside environment, so we don’t risk it. If you have your own backyard or something, you’d have more freedom. Just be sure you don’t have any diseases lurking in the ground. Parvovirus can stay in soil about 10 years or so.
Puppies smell funny. Now, I’m not used to the smell, and I hear it’s normal. However, I am surprised they smell like that.
Dogs eat poop and lick pee - their own as well as other animals, especially cats. It is normal. There’s just something appealing about it to many dogs. Not all of them do, but there are many stories by pet owners about their pups and poop eating adventures. If you don’t want them to do it, there are a lot of “suggestions”, but the most reliable one is - pick it up before he gets to it.
Puppies chew on everything and rip up their toys, so if you have an attachment to something, keep it away from the pupper. Their teeth are growing and itchy, so they’ll chomp on just about anything to relieve themselves. Don’t spend money on furniture until they’re trained to not chew on things that are not food or chew toys.
If you don’t focus and train hard early on, you’ll be stuck with a pup who has bad habits, and you only have yourself to blame. Put in the work when they’re more inclined to learn (8-12 weeks), and your pup will carry those learned behaviors into adulthood, most likely.
It’s very exciting when your pup learns new tricks. You will feel rewarded and see that the hard work is worth it.
Be careful of the information you find out there. Everyone has their preferences, and you just need to figure out what yours and your pets’ preferences are.
So there you have my very first post about pets - stay tuned for more!